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GZ Intimidator Basic Setup Guide

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Rev D - Some Dragon Info Added and How to install a Dragon Trigger into a GZ Frame



This is a basic setup guide to help you get your GZ up and going with a minimum of trouble and at maximum performance.
Most of the information will directly cross over to the Dragon Intimidator or any single reg design that also has a Semi Only Board.

First, we will go over a few DON'TS!
While the "Classic" Intimidator was fairly forgiving as to wire and hose routing inside the grip frame, the GZ and Dragon aren't.
Due to the compact nature of the 45 frame space is at a premium.
It's so tight in there, the bottom of the marker body has to be milled for solenoid clearance when using a 45 grip frame.
Having all these parts packed in close proximity leads to the two three DON'TS on your GZ.
 


Here is a picture of the number 1 culprit in GZ Intimidator premature death.
Notice the tank mounting screw sticking into the battery compartment.
This is almost too much.
If you use screws that stick into the frame more than 3/16 of an inch,
you may find extra parts loose inside your Timi!



Here is a photo of the warning label on the new GZs.
Look at the following photo to see what happens when you use one that is too long:

This is what you get.
As you tighten the screws up, they slowly raise the battery up in the frame until they take the DIP switches right off of the board.
Luckily, we were able to reattach and reflow the solder joints on this one and save it.
You may not be so lucky - and that will cost you $120.00.
 


This is the number 2 reason of premature GZ death.
This has been fixed in the new markers with the warning label on the bottom of the grip frame.
See that little chip the arrow is pointing to.
Notice the circular patterns on the top of it from the top left grip mounting screw.
Also notice the chip is twisted somewhat.
This one still works, but I have seen a couple without the top on the chip and one chip completely off of the board.
Get some washers and put under all the grip screws or get some screws that are shorter.
A trick that will get you thru is to cut a short 1/16" piece of macro line and use it for a washer or use a -004 o-ring - if you use an o-ring, don't tighten too much as the o-ring will crush easily - there may be a bump there in your grip, but it will save your board until you can get some shorter screws.




Here is a photo of the new shorter grip mount screws that come in the newer GZs next to the older longer ones.
 

Number 3 isn't quite as much of a killer.
It's the little hose barb on the back of the reg assembly inside the grip frame.

Note: This is on a Dragon with a Clamshell grip, but the regulator mount screw and hose barb are the same.
Sooner or later, if you own a Timi long enough, you will have to tighten or remove the regulator mounting screw!
The single reg housing has the hose barb that feeds the solenoid/ram right in the center of the regulator assembly.
Very, very close to the allen screw that holds the regulators on the front of the marker.
To be on the safe side, get a 3/16 socket or nut driver and remove the hose barb before trying to loosen/tighten the allen that holds the regulators on.
Breaking it off is only the start of the problem - they are usually locktited into the housing and are kinda tricky to remove without heat and a very small easyout.
Damaging the regulator body is also a possibility.
They are also a strange size that are only available from a few places, so you can ruin a weekend fast!


OK, that's it for the cautions, now lets make this Timi drive tacks like a liquid chain gun.

We will do this in 4 steps:
1 - Electrical Setup
2 - Trigger Adjustment
3 - Air and Regulator Adjustment
4 - Final Adjustments/Speed Tuning


 

Step 1: Electrical Setup
First, let's check the board settings.
The settings are the same for 2.0.1B(early SOB), 2.0.2A and 2.0.2B boards.

Lets see what solenoid you have - I have seen both in GZs.
Some of these markers were repaired elsewhere before, so the solenoid could have been changed to the green/black one.
The solenoid lead wire colors will determine your dwell settings.
Take off the grips and look at the little window in the right of the grip frame.
You can adjust the DIP switches thru this hole if you use a dental pic and your smallest set of fingers.
A flashlight will help ALSO!
Check the wiring harness for a small white plug with either green/black wires on each side OR green/black on one side and black/black on the other.
If you have green/black on both sides, you should set your dwell at 16ms.
If you have green/black on one side and black/black on the other, set your dwell at 6ms.
If your marker balks or has first shot low problems, add a couple of ms to your dwell setting.
Remember which one you have!

When looking at the marker, up (moved toward the body of the marker) is ON for the DIP switches.
On all the SOBs, the first five switches control the delay.
The delay is the time between the trigger pull and the activation of the solenoid.
The next three switches control the dwell.
The dwell is the amount of time power is applied to the solenoid to move the ram/bolt forward and hold the valve open.
Add the delay to the dwell and divide this into 1000 and you get BPS.
The 9th switch turns the eyes on or off.
The 10th switch is for tourney lock - It doesn't matter if you have this on or off unless you have the LCD screen and buttons to adjust other settings on a Dragon/Classic.

Here are all the settings for the SOBs.
If you have one installed in a marker with LCD, the Delay setting will be in the top left of the display.
NOTE: the first switch (left) has DIPs 1-6 and the second switch has DIPs 7-10.
O is for UP or ON. X is for DOWN or OFF.
We will get into speed tuning in a minute, I PROMISE!
You just need to shoot it some and get it broke in first to achieve maximum performance!

First, the delay which is the first five switches starting on the left going to the right.
15ms - OOOOO - Fastest setting due to least amount of delay.
16ms - XOOOO
17ms - OXOOO
18ms - XXOOO
19ms - OOXOO
20ms - XOXOO
21ms - OXXOO
22ms - XXXOO
23ms - OOOXO
24ms - XOOXO
25ms - OXOXO
26ms - XXOXO
27ms - OOXXO
28ms - XOXXO
29ms - OXXXO
30ms - XXXXO
31ms - OOOOX
32ms - XOOOX
33ms - OXOOX
34ms - XXOOX
35ms - OOXOX - Optimal as listed on setting sheet.
36ms - XOXOX
37ms - OXXOX
38ms - XXXOX
39ms - OOOXX
40ms - XOOXX
41ms - OXOXX
42ms - XXOXX
43ms - OOXXX
44ms - XOXXX
45ms - OXXXX
46ms - XXXXX - Slowest due to maximum delay value.

The next three switches (6, 7 and 8) control the dwell.
The settings are as follows:
06ms - OOO - starting point for solenoids with black/black wires
08ms - OOX
10ms - OXO
12ms - OXX
14ms - XOO
16ms - XOX - starting point for solenoids with black/green wires
18ms - XXO
20ms - XXX

The next switch (9) controls the eyes.
The settings are as follows: Yes, if you want the eyes on at startup, turn this switch OFF or DOWN!
Eyes ON at startup - X
Eyes OFF at startup - O

The last switch (10) controls the tourney lock.
If you have the SOB in a marker with the LCD, set this switch on so you can't change anything via the push buttons to be tourney legal.
If you have a marker without the LCD, the switch has no value as you can't adjust the settings without taking the grip off.
The settings are as follows:
Tourney Lock ON at startup - O
Tourney Lock OFF at startup - X


OK, for a good starting point, lets start with a 35ms delay, your base dwell depending on your solenoid, eyes on, tourney lock on:
For black/black soleniod - 6ms -OOXOXOOOXO
For black/green soleniod - 16ms - OOXOXXOXXO
 

Step 2: Trigger Adjustment 101
There are three set screws on your trigger.
The top one controls spring rate for return pressure - in(CW) is harder, out(CCW) is less.
The middle one controls the actual trigger switch point - in will make it fire earlier in total travel, out is later in total travel - a caution here, don't rely on the switch as a travel limit, you may damage your switch - use the bottom screw to limit travel to a positive stop.
The bottom one controls total trigger travel - how far the trigger travels from start to stop.
I like to adjust the bottom one first and get it set to the total travel I want.
Then adjust the middle one in until it clicks reliably as you move the trigger.
If you try to get too short, it will not click reliably and may leave you without being able to fire at all in a game.
If you must go for the shortest travel possible, try to get as short as possible, then lengthen it just a little for reliability.
Then adjust the spring return rate to your liking.
Too soft a trigger spring setting will result in a slower trigger as it can't return quick enough.

Trigger adjustments are one of the most individual things on a marker.  This is just a guideline to get you started.


This is a great base setup that will rip like crazy!
For normal use, you should not have to adjust this again unless you get first shot low or balking when you pull the trigger.
Again, we will get into tuning for speed in a minute!
Now that the electronics are setup, lets get the air done so we can wring it out!

 

Step 3: Air and Regulator Setup
There are so many possibilities on tanks, hoses, mounting, etc. I am assuming that you have your air system mounted, plumbed and filled.
If you have an adjustable tank, put about 500 PSI out of your tank into the Torpedo regulator.
Here is a picture of the regulators on a GZ:



The internals are the same for the GZ and Dragon.
If this is a first time setup, I like to back the top LP regulator screw out and start at 0 PSI.
The bottom regulator is used to set your FPS at the chronograph and also supplies air to the LP regulator.
You have to have enough pressure at the HP regulator to feed the LP one!
If you have a deadhead with gauge, adjust the Torpedo regulator to output about 200 PSI before you install it on your marker..
This is a good starting point and should get you started at the chronograph.
After the bottom one is set, the top LP regulator should be adjusted until the gage on the side reads approximately 85 PSI.
That is all there is to it.
Now, add paint and hit the chronograph.
After you have the FPS set approximately where you want it, rip on it a little.
This is where a good setup shines and a bad setup doesn't!

NOTE: After you shoot about a case of paint the regulators will break in.  It will smooth out and get even more consistent after it does.


 

STEP 4: FINAL ADJUSTMENTS AND SPEED TUNING 

How to setup your SOB for maximum speed.
After you have broken in your marker - usually about a case of paint - you can start tuning for speed and realize how fast your hopper is or isn't!
It also takes about this long to get really acquainted with the marker and how fast it can shoot.
Start by setting your delay to 15ms which is the fastest (least amount of delay) that you can set it to.
Air up, add paint and rip thru the first hopper as fast as you can.
Did you notice any skips as you were shooting?
If you noticed any skips or missed shots, you were pulling the trigger faster than the board could register.
You are so fast that the eyes see the bolt, think it is a ball and allow you to shoot again.
This can be bad if the ball is about halfway down into the breach and the otherwise unchopable Timi chops!
To cure this, add in about 5ms of delay and shoot another hopper.
If you get skips, add in more delay until you stop skipping shots.
As you shoot the marker and get used to the speed, you may have to add more delay to stop the skips.
The actual delay varies from player to player, but you can really tune this one to your liking.


Want more performance and durability?
Lets add a volumizer and some aluminum eye covers.


Here is a picture of the volumizer kit from Bob Long.

NOTE: Only use DOW 55 lube on these o-rings as this is a direct path to the solenoid.  The solenoid doesn't like oil or teflon tape and finding either inside the solenoid will void your warranty. 



Here is what it looks out of the bag.
The two largest o-rings go on the back of the volumizer.
The small one goes on the stub on the back of the regulator assembly you remove from the marker.

Remove the front regulator from the marker.  It should screw out by hand. Remove this o-ring from the regulator.

Put the small o-ring from the kit on the back of the regulator and lube it up.
This is excessive lube! I cleaned it a little before installing.

Put the two pieces together and tighten them up by hand. If your LP pressure climbs or spikes, check the o-ring on the extreme right first.  If it still climbs or spikes, check the small one installed in the previous picture. Lube the o-rings and install on the marker. Another thing to remember before you air up is to back the bottom Torpedo regulator screw out about a turn. This should get you back about where you were on FPS.

If you need to take the front regulator apart to clean and lube, take off the front cover like this.  It should screw off by hand.

This is all the parts removed for inspection.  You will probably have to pull the piston out with needle nose pliers.  The small end goes in first.  The indention on the small end is where the valve pin sits. If your Low Pressure spikes or varies up AND down, the piston o-ring is probably the culprit and needs a good cleaning or replacement and lube job with DOW 55.

The inside seat and valve pin assembly is held in place with this 3/8 inch nut.  When you unscrew it from the bottom of the regulator, be careful not to bend the brass pin in the center.  That's the pin that rides on the piston.  When you put it back together, make the nut snug, but not too tight.  The black o-ring needs to seal between the brass nut and regulator body - this o-ring can cause rising LP pressure if it leaks.

Here is the seat and valve pin assembly out of the regulator.
There is a black o-ring under the head of the 3/8" brass nut, it's just hard to see in this photo.  The small white o-ring is the seat.  If your pressure climbs on the Low Pressure side, this is probably the culprit if the brass nut is snug in the regulator housing.

A picture of the Aluminum Eye Covers from Bob. There are a couple of other manufacturers that make some good ones too. Paintball Kingdom and Twisted products come to mind. The stock plastic covers have been one of the most replaced parts on any Timi, ever!

Here is a picture of the volumizer and eye covers installed.

 


Inside the Dragon

This is a shot of the left side with the grips removed. There are multiple holes to fit many different grips. The four black allen head screws that hold the halves together are on the front below the nickle plated trim piece and and at the back behind the trim.  The other two are located about halfway up on the front of the handle and at the back bottom corner.

This is a closeup of the eye cover and mounting holes.  They won't interchange with Classic, GZ or Ripper bodies.

This is a picture of the grip with the left half and board removed. The eye harness and LCD cable are held back out of picture to show inside frame.  Notice how trigger and/or trigger guard can be changed.  It is nice to be able to take the left half off without taking the grip frame off of the body or the air tank off the bottom.

The yellow text points to the pushbutton on the back of the solenoid.  If your marker isn't shooting when you fire it, you can manually test the solenoid here. Assuming that you have checked the air and regulators - both LP and HP and are getting the proper pressures BEFORE you try this:  If you pull the trigger, hear the solenoid clicking and get a small puff of air but the marker doesn't shoot, push this button to "reset" it. This does the same thing mechanically that the trigger does electronically - it activates the solenoid. BE CAREFUL, THE MARKER WILL FIRE WHEN YOU PUSH THIS BUTTON IF THE MARKER IS AIRED UP.



A close up of the Dragon Trigger and mounting screw.  It is lighter and rounded.  The trigger switch is in the stock position just the way it came from the factory.  The milling in this frame is very intricate - notice the tabs that hold the return spring.  You can only appreciate the time spend on milling AFTER you see one close up in person.

Here is the S/N and the signature under the battery.
This is S/N 31 which belongs to Jason.

 


Dragon Trigger into a GZ Frame



Here is an assortment of triggers.
The top left is the stock Classic and GZ trigger.
Top center is a Bob Long Blade.
Top right is a Bob Long Blade that has been modified.
Bottom left is the "Bent Version" of the Dragon Trigger.
Bottom center is the stock Dragon Trigger.
Bottom right is the "Filed Version" of the Dragon Trigger.



This is a picture of three Dragon Triggers.  The one on the left is the Bent version and is easy to do by bending the tang down to allow trigger movement.  The one in the center is the stock Dragon Trigger.  It will fit in most GZ frames, but won't move enough to activate the trigger switch.  The one on the right is the Filed version.  This one is filed on the back to allow the trigger to move in the frame.

This is a close up of the bent tang on the top trigger.  The stock Dragon Trigger is on the bottom.  You want to be careful as you bend the tang and test fit it between bends.  Try to not bend it too much, just enough too allow the trigger enough travel to activate the switch.  You will still use the bottom screw as a positive stop.

This is a picture of the Bent version installed in a GZ frame.  Notice that it sticks forward at the bottom.  Some folks like the trigger further forward.  If you are one of those, go with the Bent version.

This is a picture of the stock Dragon Trigger on the left and the Filed version on the right.  Notice where the trigger is filed.  File just enough to allow trigger travel when mounted.  It makes it a little lighter than the Bent version.

This is a picture of the Filed version installed in a GZ frame.  Notice that the trigger sits back further in the frame when you use the Filed version.

This is a picture of the trigger installed with a switch added.  Notice the shim between the trigger and the frame.  The Dragon Trigger is thinner than the Classic/GZ trigger.  When adjusted right WITHOUT the shim, it will side tap like crazy and shoots pretty fast if you like a side tap trigger.  If you prefer a less sloppy trigger, install some shims.  When you have your test fitting complete, lubricate the pivot screw and put a small dab of DOW55 where the center trigger screw hits the bar on the switch.  Don't forget a little blue Locktite on the trigger adjustment set screws so they will stay where you put them. With the Dragon Trigger installed, you can decrease your return spring pressure quite a bit or remove the return spring completely. You can also get a spring from an ink pen and cut it to suit your playing style.

MORE TO COME!



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Last modified: May 11, 2009