PETTY PAINTBALL FIELD AND
Serving Central Texas for 15 YEARS!!!
Nel-Spot 707 Resto
Rev D - Some Dragon Info Added and How to install a Dragon Trigger into a GZ Frame
This is a basic setup guide to help you get your GZ up and going with a minimum of trouble and at maximum performance.
Most of the information will directly cross over to the Dragon Intimidator or any single reg design that also has a Semi Only Board.
First, we will go over a few DON'TS!
While the "Classic" Intimidator was fairly forgiving as to wire and hose routing inside the grip frame, the GZ and Dragon aren't.
Due to the compact nature of the 45 frame space is at a premium.
It's so tight in there, the bottom of the marker body has to be milled for solenoid clearance when using a 45 grip frame.
Having all these parts packed in close proximity leads to the two three DON'TS on your GZ.
Here is a photo of the warning label on the new GZs.
Look at the following photo to see what happens when you use one that is too long:
This is what you get.
As you tighten the screws up, they slowly raise the battery up in the frame until they take the DIP switches right off of the board.
Luckily, we were able to reattach and reflow the solder joints on this one and save it.
You may not be so lucky - and that will cost you $120.00.
Here is a photo of the new shorter grip mount screws that come in the newer GZs next to the older longer ones.
Number 3 isn't quite as much of a killer.
OK, that's it for the cautions, now lets make this Timi drive tacks like a liquid chain gun.
We will do this in 4 steps:
Step 1: Electrical Setup
Lets see what solenoid you have - I have seen both in GZs.
When looking at the marker, up (moved toward the body of the marker) is ON for the DIP switches.
Here are all the settings for the SOBs.
First, the delay which is the first five switches starting on the left going to the right.
The next three switches (6, 7 and 8) control the dwell.
The next switch (9) controls the eyes.
The last switch (10) controls the tourney lock.
OK, for a good starting point, lets start with a 35ms delay, your base dwell depending on your solenoid, eyes on, tourney lock on:
For black/black soleniod - 6ms -OOXOXOOOXO
For black/green soleniod - 16ms - OOXOXXOXXO
Step 2: Trigger Adjustment 101
Trigger adjustments are one of the most individual things on a marker. This is just a guideline to get you started.
This is a great base setup that will rip like crazy!
For normal use, you should not have to adjust this again unless you get first shot low or balking when you pull the trigger.
Again, we will get into tuning for speed in a minute!
Now that the electronics are setup, lets get the air done so we can wring it out!
Step 3: Air and Regulator Setup
NOTE: After you shoot about a case of paint the regulators will break in. It will smooth out and get even more consistent after it does.
STEP 4: FINAL ADJUSTMENTS AND SPEED TUNING
How to setup your SOB for maximum speed.
Want more performance and durability?
Lets add a volumizer and some aluminum eye covers.
Here is a picture of the volumizer kit from Bob Long.
NOTE: Only use DOW 55 lube on these o-rings as this is a direct path to the solenoid. The solenoid doesn't like oil or teflon tape and finding either inside the solenoid will void your warranty.
Here is what it looks out of the bag.
The two largest o-rings go on the back of the volumizer.
The small one goes on the stub on the back of the regulator assembly you remove from the marker.
Remove the front regulator from the marker. It should screw out by hand. Remove this o-ring from the regulator.
Put the small o-ring from the kit on the back of the regulator and lube it up.
This is excessive lube! I cleaned it a little before installing.
Put the two pieces together and tighten them up by hand. If your LP pressure climbs or spikes, check the o-ring on the extreme right first. If it still climbs or spikes, check the small one installed in the previous picture. Lube the o-rings and install on the marker. Another thing to remember before you air up is to back the bottom Torpedo regulator screw out about a turn. This should get you back about where you were on FPS.
If you need to take the front regulator apart to clean and lube, take off the front cover like this. It should screw off by hand.
This is all the parts removed for inspection. You will probably have to pull the piston out with needle nose pliers. The small end goes in first. The indention on the small end is where the valve pin sits. If your Low Pressure spikes or varies up AND down, the piston o-ring is probably the culprit and needs a good cleaning or replacement and lube job with DOW 55.
The inside seat and valve pin assembly is held in place with this 3/8 inch nut. When you unscrew it from the bottom of the regulator, be careful not to bend the brass pin in the center. That's the pin that rides on the piston. When you put it back together, make the nut snug, but not too tight. The black o-ring needs to seal between the brass nut and regulator body - this o-ring can cause rising LP pressure if it leaks.
Here is the seat and valve pin assembly out of the regulator.
There is a black o-ring under the head of the 3/8" brass nut, it's just hard to see in this photo. The small white o-ring is the seat. If your pressure climbs on the Low Pressure side, this is probably the culprit if the brass nut is snug in the regulator housing.
A picture of the Aluminum Eye Covers from Bob. There are a couple of other manufacturers that make some good ones too. Paintball Kingdom and Twisted products come to mind. The stock plastic covers have been one of the most replaced parts on any Timi, ever!
Here is a picture of the volumizer and eye covers installed.
Inside the Dragon
This is a shot of the left side with the grips removed. There are multiple holes to fit many different grips. The four black allen head screws that hold the halves together are on the front below the nickle plated trim piece and and at the back behind the trim. The other two are located about halfway up on the front of the handle and at the back bottom corner.
This is a closeup of the eye cover and mounting holes. They won't interchange with Classic, GZ or Ripper bodies.
This is a picture of the grip with the left half and board removed. The eye harness and LCD cable are held back out of picture to show inside frame. Notice how trigger and/or trigger guard can be changed. It is nice to be able to take the left half off without taking the grip frame off of the body or the air tank off the bottom.
The yellow text points to the pushbutton on the back of the solenoid. If your marker isn't shooting when you fire it, you can manually test the solenoid here. Assuming that you have checked the air and regulators - both LP and HP and are getting the proper pressures BEFORE you try this: If you pull the trigger, hear the solenoid clicking and get a small puff of air but the marker doesn't shoot, push this button to "reset" it. This does the same thing mechanically that the trigger does electronically - it activates the solenoid. BE CAREFUL, THE MARKER WILL FIRE WHEN YOU PUSH THIS BUTTON IF THE MARKER IS AIRED UP.
A close up of the Dragon Trigger and mounting screw. It is lighter and rounded. The trigger switch is in the stock position just the way it came from the factory. The milling in this frame is very intricate - notice the tabs that hold the return spring. You can only appreciate the time spend on milling AFTER you see one close up in person.
Here is the S/N and the signature under the battery.
This is S/N 31 which belongs to Jason.
Dragon Trigger into a GZ Frame
This is a picture of three Dragon Triggers. The one on the left is the Bent version and is easy to do by bending the tang down to allow trigger movement. The one in the center is the stock Dragon Trigger. It will fit in most GZ frames, but won't move enough to activate the trigger switch. The one on the right is the Filed version. This one is filed on the back to allow the trigger to move in the frame.
This is a close up of the bent tang on the top trigger. The stock Dragon Trigger is on the bottom. You want to be careful as you bend the tang and test fit it between bends. Try to not bend it too much, just enough too allow the trigger enough travel to activate the switch. You will still use the bottom screw as a positive stop.
This is a picture of the Bent version installed in a GZ frame. Notice that it sticks forward at the bottom. Some folks like the trigger further forward. If you are one of those, go with the Bent version.
This is a picture of the stock Dragon Trigger on the left and the Filed version on the right. Notice where the trigger is filed. File just enough to allow trigger travel when mounted. It makes it a little lighter than the Bent version.
This is a picture of the Filed version installed in a GZ frame. Notice that the trigger sits back further in the frame when you use the Filed version.
This is a picture of the trigger installed with a switch added. Notice the shim between the trigger and the frame. The Dragon Trigger is thinner than the Classic/GZ trigger. When adjusted right WITHOUT the shim, it will side tap like crazy and shoots pretty fast if you like a side tap trigger. If you prefer a less sloppy trigger, install some shims. When you have your test fitting complete, lubricate the pivot screw and put a small dab of DOW55 where the center trigger screw hits the bar on the switch. Don't forget a little blue Locktite on the trigger adjustment set screws so they will stay where you put them. With the Dragon Trigger installed, you can decrease your return spring pressure quite a bit or remove the return spring completely. You can also get a spring from an ink pen and cut it to suit your playing style.
MORE TO COME!
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