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Classic Intimidator Basic Information

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WHAT'S UNDER THE GRIPS?
And Other Basic Information about Classic Intimidators

Remove four screws with a 1/16" allen wrench.
Hold the allen wrench so you use the short end for leverage.
That should be enough to remove or install the grips.
Any more and you may crack the grips or strip threads in the grip frame.
Here is the left side with the grip removed.
Be careful when you remove the grip and unplug the three pin connector.
Green on the bottom when you plug it back in.
You can see the Serial Number location, the cable you unplugged from the buttons, the flat white ribbon cable that goes to the display, the three trigger adjustment screws, and the board mounting screw.
As for the three trigger screws:
The top one sets your spring rate.
The middle one adjusts the distance between the trigger and the switch.
The bottom one adjusts the trigger stop distance.
The board mount screw may or may not have a -004 o-ring under the head.
If it doesn't, you need to add one - see next photo.

See that small circuit trace.
If the conformal coating on your board rubs off here, it can ground to the head of the board mounting screw, creating a short which will cause all kind of strange things.
If you turn on your marker and it fires and the bolt stays forward, this is most likely the culprit.
It can cause strange things with the Anti-Chop Eye, also.

Here is a closeup with the O-Ring in place.
You don't have to tighten this until you crush the o-ring.
The rubber will hold the screw.

Better detail of trigger adjustment screws.

This is what is under the right grip frame.
No cables to remove here, just the 4 mounting screws.
Here, the battery is flipped up and over the board to expose the famous DIP Switches.
Up, or toward the marker body is on.
DIP Switch #1 is on the left.

Notice the screw sticking into the battery compartment.
This can happen with an ASA adapter or a drop forward.
You will need to cut the screw and dress the threads to keep it from hitting the battery.
Make sure you get a screw the proper length so it doesn't hit your battery.
This owner plays with a remote setup, thus the standard ASA adapter.

Left side with grip installed - different marker even.

Right side with ACE Cover removed and laying to right of ACE.

Which regulator is which?  If you perform the LP Mod, the top regulator becomes a volumizer and the velocity is adjusted by an inline regulator.

Two types of grips.
Stock smoothies on the right.
Newer ridged style on left.

Two Intimidators come in the same day.
These are the barrels on them.
Top barrel has spiral porting and is longer.
Bottom has straight porting. 

Intimidator Bolts
Top is the early venturi bolt.
The two middle bolts are Mountain Paintball Delrin bolts.
The bottom one is the later model aluminum bolt.


This is the Black to Gray fade.
It had the o-ring under the board mounting screw from the factory.

Top is dark blue back to purple in front fade.
Bottom is black back to gray in front fade.

Same two, just other side.
We are trying to convince the owner of the bottom one to
let us tear it down and do a photo shoot of it.
He's not too interested in seeing us take it all the way apart right now!

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Last modified: May 11, 2009