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This mod works on Classics and almost any other
Intimidator. You can get very short trigger pulls with this mod. It won't work
with the new Alias and Empire as the switch is hard mounted on the main CCA.
WANT A FAST TRIGGER?
WANT TO BE ABLE TO STOP TRIGGER BOUNCE?
YOU ASKED FOR IT, HERE IT IS:
Note: This requires cutting parts and adjusting for optimum results.
It is fairly easy to do and most folks who maintain their markers can do this.
This
took about 15 minutes to do including taking photos, so it is not THAT
hard, but also consider that I have done this a number of times.
If you are not comfortable doing this, please consult a competent airsmith.
This is our backup Intimidator
It still has the standard 1.4.3 Select Fire Board (SFB).
The standard board will benefit from this modification by being faster on the trigger as well.
The Semi Only Board (SOB), WAS or Entrophy will benefit even more as
trigger bounce can be eliminated and it is fast as all get out!
The marker is upside down in these photos as it was easier to work with the tank out of the way.
After you remove the left grip, this is what you see.
Be
careful when you remove the grip as the buttons beside the LCD screen
are plugged into that wiring harness plug on the bottom left of the
picture.
Note the -004 O-ring under the board mounting screw head.
If you don't have one under the screw head, you should have!
Gently pull the two white tabs on each side of the ribbon cable AWAY
from the board(down in this photo as the marker is upside down) to
disengage the lock and pull it out of the connector.
Next, remove the mounting screw from the board.
As you pull the board up, unplug the two plugs from the wiring harness and remove the board.
Here is a close-up of the -004 o-ring under the board mounting screw head.
This is important to keep the little trace under the screw head from
shorting out in the future and causing all kinds of weird things to
happen!
Here is the board removed and flipped over.
You can see the trigger switch in the right of the photo.
The small phillips screwdriver is pointing to one of the two switch mounting screws.
These are very tiny screws and it doesn't take much to strip the threads or break the screws.
PLEASE BE CAREFUL WITH THESE LITTLE GUYS!!
Remove them both now.
This is a closeup of the switch arm we will be cutting in the next operation.
From here on, there is no turning back.
YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!
Using a pair of small side cutters, cut the switch arm about 1/16" ABOVE the split in the arm.
It will look like this when you are finished.
Fold the two switch wires back at a 180 degree angle as you are turning the switch over upside down.
BE VERY CAREFUL HERE, DON'T BEND THE WIRES RIGHT AT THE SWITCH, THEY WILL BREAK!
FOLD THE WIRES ABOUT 3/8 OF AN INCH FROM THE SWITCH JUST PAST THE BLACK HEAT
SHRINK TUBING.
The wires in the harness are long enough, so don't worry about length!
Put the switch back in place and start the two small phillips screws, but don't tighten them yet!
Using a 1/16" allen wrench, gently pry back and up on the switch while tightening the two screws.
You
are only interested in moving the switch back and up against the slop
in the mounting holes in the switch, NOT WRENCHING against them.
Here I am putting a VERY SMALL amount of DOW 55 grease on the end of the trigger adjusting screw using a dental pick.
Use it sparingly here to keep it out of the switch mechanism.
I like the DOW 55 as it will not liquify and run inside the switch.
While
still here, grab your 5/64" allen wrench and adjust the middle screw
until it will click the trigger switch when the trigger is pulled back.
You can get it pretty short - this one is .016" total travel at the bottom of the trigger!
You will probably want to back off of the spring tension a little, too - that's the top screw.
Cafefully fold the trigger switch wires - don't try to bend the tabs
that come
out of the switch - they are ALMOST GUARANTEED TO BREAK off of the
switch, plug in the two black connectors from the wiring harness and
re-install the board.
After the board is re-mounted, slide the two white locks on the connector up while re-installing the ribbon cable.
After the ribbon cable seats, push the two white locks back down to lock the cable in place.
Here it is ready to re-install the grip.
Make sure to plug the button wire back into the grip.
Looking from the bottom of the marker, the green wire on the plug goes on bottom
of connector on grip.
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