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Intimidator Warp Feed Install

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DO YOU HAVE THE NEED?
THE NEED FOR SPEED?
AND A LOWER PROFILE TOO BOOT!
Here are detailed instructions how to modify your Warp Feed and install it on your Intimidator.
We use the Warp Feed from Pro-Team Products as it has the adapters to screw into the top of the Intimidator in place of the Vertical Feed Tube and is more adjustable for different people.
The basic installation and hose routing are not covered here as there are detailed instructions included with the Warp Feed.
These instructions go above and beyond that for the maximum performance your Intimidator requires.
The Warp Feed is wired into the Solenoid circuit on the Intimidator so it turns when you pull the trigger.
At the end, we will also show you how to install a switch and modify your harness inside the Warp Feed to run off of two 9V batteries.
The battery mod doesn't make it spin faster, just run longer and allows you to turn it off to save the batteries.

To wire the Warp Feed into your Solenoid, you will need:
1 Radio Shack 3/32" Two-Conductor Phono Plug - P/N 274-289C
2 12" pieces of # 20 or # 22 stranded wire - I used one green and one black to match the Timi harness.
12" 1/8" heat shrink tubing - I used grey for this
Some Super Glue
Wire cutters, soldering iron and solder, heat gun or lighter to shrink tubing, an x-acto knife or a drill and 3/32" bit to drill the grip.

To do the Switch and Battery mod, you will need:
1 Radio Shack SPDT MicroMini Toggle Switch - P/N 275-625A - it's small enough to fit where you need it. NOTE: They were out of SPST switches the day I was there!
A package of 9V Battery Snap Connectors - P/N 270-324 - they come 5 to a pack
About 3 inches of 1/8 Heat Shrink Tubing
A 3/16" drill bit and drill
Soldering Iron and Solder, wire cutters, something to shrink heat shrink tubing.



Step one, take your plug and solder the Green wire to the center connector and the Black wire to the outside connector.

Slide a 1/2" long piece of heat shrink on the green lead and shrink it in place.
Then after it cools, gently clamp the wire in place with the tabs on the plug.

Slide an 8 inch piece of heat shrink over both wires and down on the plug.
Shrink this in place and put the cap back on the plug.
It should look like this when finished. with about 3 1/2 inches of wire sticking out.

Drill a 3/32" hole in the bottom of the left grip for the wire to go thru.
After you stick it thru, slide a 1/4" piece of heat shrink over the end of the existing heat shrink.
Put a dab of Super Glue on the end of the Heat Shrink and shrink the 1/4" piece on the end like this.

Place the wires carefully in the grip going around and over the top of the battery.
Replace the screws in the grip and it should look like this.

With the right grip removed, this is what you should do.
Carefully cut the Black and the Green wire between the board plug and the white plug and splice in the green and black wire from the harness you made.
Notice the 1/2" long pieces of Heat Shrink on the wires coming from the plug at the bottom of photo.
Solder the wires and place and shrink the tubing in place.

After you have soldered and shrunk the tubing, push the wires in place like this.
They will be held in place by the battery.
Notice the loops of slack so you can remove the left grip without problems.

Jumping ahead slightly to show the harness plugged into the Warp Feed.

Remove the black cover on the right side of the Warp Feed and this is what you see.
The jumpers on the left control runtime after activation.
The jumper on the bottom right controls how you activate the Warp Feed.
Put this jumper in the middle position.
If there are two jumpers, just put one in the middle.

This is what you need to install two 9V batteries for longer run time.
The switch allows you to turn the Warp Feed off and save batteries.

Wire the two red wires together and slide a 1/2" piece of heat shrink over them and solder to the middle lug on the switch.

Cut the existing plug off of the harness leaving enough length to solder and put the switch in place.

Strip the black and red wires.
Slide a 1/2" length of Heat Shrink over the red and black wires.
Solder the Red wire to one of the switch lugs - it doesn't matter which one, one way in on and the other is off.
Solder the three Black wires together.
Shrink the Heat Shrink on all the connections so it looks like this photo.

This is where you want to drill the 3/16" hole for the switch to mount.
Make sure it is high enough to clear the battery door when it is slid in place.
Here it is out of the way and not likely to get turned off easily.
It is also out of the way when you install the batteries.
We turn the switch so it is on when in the UP position.

Remove all the nuts and washers from the switch.
Slide the switch in place and install the big washer and one nut.
Tighten the nut, but not too tight.

When you put the two batteries in place, cut a piece of foam from the packing material that came with the Warp Feed to keep the batteries from rattling around.
The last thing you want is someone you are about to bunker hearing your batteries rattling when you are about to DO 'EM!

Here is a picture of the Warp Feed with the switch and plug from the Timi installed.

Here are the four "Twins".

 

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Last modified: May 11, 2009